Hydra Sailing Journal
My first visit to Hydra, Saronic Islands, Greece was at the beginning of October 2019, arriving with my floating home ⛵ all the way from Israel. The harbor often sees an influx of cruise ships, bringing large groups of tourists that significantly boost the local economy while preserving the island’s traditional appearance.
It was a Friday, and the usually bustling charter boat traffic around the harbor and the island’s coves had dwindled to near non-existence. It was time for them to return to their point of origin for crew changes and the start of a new week. I knew that in the harbor, I wouldn’t anchor after hearing all the horror stories about the place. And so I headed to Mandraki Bay located a bit to the east of the port, from which you can reach the tows by foot, by dinghy, or by a water taxi. Hydra has no motorized vehicles (a dream!), and these are the only means of transportation available, which holds true for other locations on the island as well. Donkeys are still there, as some kind of gimmick, but in my opinion, this terrible treatment of animals must stop! We’re way past that!
I found Navily, the fantastic information-sharing app, to be extremely helpful for planning my sailing adventures in Mandraki Bay. One thing I made sure to avoid was the western/northern part of the bay, where I read there are abandoned anchors, chains, and various heavy metals lying on the deep seabed (approximately 15-20 meters deep). These hazards could potentially get the anchor stuck and create unexpected expenses for local divers and added costs to my sailing budget. So, it was crucial for me to steer clear of that area. We docked in the inner part of the bay, which is calmer and closer to the shore, making it convenient for strolling into the city. The bay was quite empty, which seemed strange to me, considering it was still early October, prior to COVID-19, and Hydra is one of the islands that has the longest season, mainly because of its attractiveness and proximity to Athens. Leonard Cohen purchased a house on the island and skyrocketed its real estate value, elevating Hydra’s popularity even further than it already was!
There were days of calm sea/oil/stillness, making it easy to explore the island with the dinghy. The central harbor was also nearly empty during the late afternoon; I couldn’t believe there was space available. In the evening, we took a walking tour of the town to avoid returning inebriated with the dinghy in the dark 🙂 Of course, by then, the anchorage was already filled, even on Fridays. On Saturdays, there were already second and third rows of boats. The morning after, lots of people tried to free their way.
Commonly practiced in mooring in Hydra, when there is limited space, boats tie one to another. This means the first boat drops the anchor and ties the stern to the dock. Once the first row is filled, the second row begins, with those boats dropping anchor and connecting stern to the previous boat’s bow, forming a continuous line. This continues with more and more rows. On the opposite side, the same process occurs. Now, imagine several boats tied to each other and facing another row of boats. In the morning, they leave in the reverse order of how they entered. To the dock and from there to the boat, the sailors make their way on the boats between the dock and their boat, even in the middle of the night, often under the influence. In short, no judgments here—everyone has their own choices 🙂
We strolled for about 20-25 minutes on this amazingly beautiful island until we reached Mandraki, where our dinghy was waiting for us to take us back to our boat.
I must mention that last year, when I arrived at Mandraki in September, it was impossible to find a spot to anchor! The bay was packed with more boats than Herzliya Marina, and the distance between each was smaller than at Tel Aviv Marina. Every boat was squeezed in, stern against the rocks, and in the middle of the bay, there were even more boats anchored freely – just to be in Hydra. Among all the boats, there were floating mattresses and a million people swimming and frolicking in the water… Wow! We escaped from there to the neighboring island called Dokos. There, we were almost alone 🙂 By the way, you can order a water taxi from Dokos to Hydra and back, for those interested. It’s not cheap, but if enough people share the cost, it could be a reasonable solution. Perhaps even less crowded (I haven’t tried it).
In conclusion, Hydra is not just one of the most popular islands in all of Greece, and it’s not just that Leonard Cohen, may he rest in peace, decided to settle there, and it’s not just that everyone wants to visit it. But… Hydra isn’t an easy destination, and it’s good to know that. So, here are some tips nonetheless: If possible, try to arrive on Friday \ Saturday. If you’re in Mandraki, avoid the problematic and deep area of the bay. And if you dock at the harbor, try to stand guard and make sure you can leave in the morning without unnecessary troubles.
And if neither works out – it’s not a big deal, a short sail to Dokos and you’re in a dream… Enjoy…
The author is Oded Freidin – the founder of the Facebook group “Sailing in Greece” who lives on his yacht in Piraeus.

Hydra Island In Greece
Hydra, a unique Greek island in the Saronic Islands of Greece, offers sailors a unique blend of rich history, stunning architecture, and unspoiled natural beauty. Its car-free cobblestone streets, preserved mansions, and crystal-clear waters make it a must-visit destination for maritime enthusiasts. This guide delves into the essentials of sailing around Hydra, ensuring an unforgettable experience. Hydra is also renowned as one of the most picturesque and unspoiled Greek islands, attracting tourists and artists alike with its tranquil and culturally rich atmosphere.
Approaching Hydra: A Sailor's First Glimpse
As you approach Hydra Island, the amphitheater-shaped harbor comes into view, surrounded by traditional stone houses and mansions that have stood the test of time. Hydra’s historical significance during the Greek War of Independence is evident in its preserved architecture from that era, reflecting its rich naval tradition and notable residents. The absence of motorized vehicles enhances the island’s serene atmosphere, with donkeys and water taxis serving as primary modes of transportation. This unique characteristic preserves Hydra’s old-world charm, offering sailors a tranquil retreat from bustling city life.
Navigating Hydra Harbor in the Saronic Gulf

Hydra’s main harbor is renowned for its beauty but is also known for its limited space, especially during peak seasons. It’s common to find boats moored multiple rows deep along the quay. Early arrival is advisable to secure a favorable spot. Be prepared for the possibility of rafting alongside other vessels and ensure your crew is adept at Mediterranean mooring techniques to handle the crowded conditions.
Alternative Anchorages Around Hydra
For those seeking quieter mooring options, several bays around Hydra offer serene alternatives:
Mandraki Bay: Located just east of the main harbor, Mandraki provides a spacious anchorage with a sandy bottom. While it offers good protection from prevailing winds, be cautious of areas with abandoned anchors and chains on the seabed. A water taxi service operates here during the peak season, facilitating easy access to Hydra Town.
Molos Bay: Situated a few miles west of Hydra Town, Molos is a secluded bay surrounded by pine trees and a pebble beach. The bay offers good holding and shelter from most wind directions. Approach from the east to avoid reefs near the entrance. There are small disembarkation piers, and a path through the pine forest leads to the town, making it a peaceful anchorage option.
Bisti Bay: Located on the west tip of Hydra, Bisti is a pleasant cove with a forest of pine trees and turquoise waters. It’s exposed to northern and eastern winds, so it’s best visited in calm conditions. The area is mildly touristy during the season, but it offers good holding and is ideal for snorkeling.
Exploring Hydra Town and Hiking Trails
Once ashore, Hydra Town captivates visitors with its preserved architecture and vibrant cultural scene. Henry Miller, who visited in 1939, greatly appreciated the island’s beauty and ambiance. The 17th-century Conventual Church of the Panayia, located on the quay, features a beautiful cloister and art collection. Another notable cultural site is the National Historical Museum, which focuses on art and history. The town’s narrow streets are lined with shops, cafes, and tavernas, offering local delicacies like almond cake (amygdalote) and fresh seafood. Some of the buildings originally used as monasteries now serve as the local town hall, which also houses a small museum. Evenings can be spent enjoying live music at local bars or simply soaking in the serene ambiance of the harbor.
Activities and Attractions in Hydra Island
Beyond sailing, Hydra offers a plethora of activities:
Hiking: The island’s terrain is ideal for hiking enthusiasts. A popular trek leads to the Monastery of Profitis Ilias, founded in the 10th century, offering panoramic views of the island and the Aegean Sea.
Beaches: Hydra boasts several pristine beaches. Vlichos Beach, approximately 1.2 miles from the harbor, is a wonderful pebbled beach with clear waters. Kaminia Beach, closer to the town, offers a quaint setting with fish taverns lining the coast. For a unique experience, Spilia Beach consists of rocks from which visitors can dive into the sea, complemented by a nearby beach bar.
Cultural Sites: The island is home to numerous churches and six Orthodox monasteries. The Monastery of the Dormition of the Virgin, located on the quayside, contains the tomb of Lazaros Kountouriotis, a significant figure in Greek history.
Hydra is easily accessible from other islands in the Saronic archipelago and the Peloponnese. Its unspoiled nature compared to other islands, with limited growth and preservation of its charm, attracts both tourists and locals year-round.
Tips for a Memorable Sailing Experience
Timing: Visiting during the shoulder seasons of late spring (May-June) or early autumn (September-October) can offer milder weather and fewer crowds, enhancing the sailing experience.
Provisions: While Hydra Town has various shops and markets, it’s advisable to stock up on essential supplies before arrival, especially if planning to anchor in more secluded bays.
Local Regulations: Respect local customs and regulations, particularly the prohibition of motorized vehicles. Embrace the island’s pace by exploring on foot or utilizing water taxis and donkeys for transportation.
Conclusion
Sailing around Hydra offers a harmonious blend of maritime adventure and cultural immersion. Its combination of historic charm, natural beauty, and welcoming locals makes it a standout destination in the Saronic Gulf. Whether you’re anchoring in a secluded bay or exploring the vibrant town, Hydra promises an unforgettable sailing experience.